small is beautiful as a business model or why i still think selling out is the worst sin |
Ben & Jerry’s sold to Kraft. My favorite small chocolatier, Scharffen Berger, sold to Hersheys. Death Cab for Cutie signed to Columbia. When did the concept of selling out become quaint and passé? Can I please blame postmodernism? I love doing that. I still believe in derision towards artists who sell out, and I believe in the transformative power of the micro business that does not strive for anything more than what it is. A business that is committed to staying small is a business committed to not selling out, and if that is simplistic or regressive maybe that’s because things that are simple and relate to a time not our own are just much better. I’m all for simplicity and regressing, especially if it allows me to leave Bushworld behind. The latest attempt to keep myself pure in the face of the obsession with all things big and ugly in postmodern Amerika is my new business philosophy: small is beautiful. Balance One of the many, many huge problems with the mainstream business world is lack of balance. You’re supposed to focus on your business all day every day. It’s a matter of pride with business owners that the phrase “I own a small business” is synonymous with “I |
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work 16 hour days and have not been outside in weeks.” To be honest, I work 16-hour days three times a week, and during the winter I rarely go outside Saturday through Tuesday, but my other days are free to spend on non-cooking projects. If I didn’t have my volunteer projects, garden, cockamamie crafting ideas, cats and my boychik to keep me balanced, cooking for a living would tire me out in less than a year. I don’t believe that anyone, no matter how much they love their work, will be fulfilled if they work every minute.
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That’s a myth that people who work in office jobs they hate tell themselves: “If I could just sell my line of pillowcases made from reclaimed coffee sacks to Wal-mart, I would work all the time and never be unhappy again!” In the real world, you’re always going to hate your job sometimes, just as you sometimes hate your lover or your house or your toes. Owning your own business will teach you this faster than you can say “limited liability.”[1] Recently, though, I’ve backed off from the idea that I must work all the time in order to face the world as a small business owner in good standing. The primary reason I began to think small is because last year I moved to my first real community. Last year my [1] What is it about work that makes us dislike it? I just had a bunch of businessey emails to respond to, and when I was done I felt such a sense of relief “phew, made it. Now it’s time to relax.” So I sat and read a foodporn magazine, and realized that I would really rather be responding to email even my business email is pretty interesting. People write to me to discuss vegan cheeses they’ve made that worked, to compliment me on meals and truffles, and to order stuff, all of which are fun and/or good. But it’s “work,” so I suffer through it. If it were a volunteer job, I would look forward to it all day. I guess it’s just that money taints everything. |
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sweet and I scraped together enough for a down payment on a sweet retro mod house in the very progressive, very green, very farm-friendly (important for a cook like me!) small town of New Paltz, NY.
So I find myself in a community, one of those things liberals like me are always trying to preserve and strengthen. When the independent bookstore on main street closed last month and rumors of another Starbucks moving into its spot started circulating, I was rightfully angered. I also run my meal delivery service from New Paltz, so I think about the town from two perspectives, that of the resident and that of the business owner. I want my business to be good for the town, good for my bank account, and good for my life. I want to have time to explore and enjoy my community. So I have had to learn how to balance. Think globally, work locally It’s important not to get too big because if we are really to have long lasting solutions to the problems currently facing our communities like facelessness, sustainability, etc, those solutions must be local. What works in one area will not work in another. Just because you have a great business idea, it is much more sustainable in the long run to help local people |
open similar businesses in their communities than to open up a branch of your business in a new place. The problem with this, of course, is that not only do you not make as much money as you could if you just franchised, but if you are a really good business owner you will never find someone to do what you do as good as you do it, so it is tempting to do everything your way. But the business of creating a more perfect world is not perfect.
Purity Another reason to stay small in thought and action is that it keeps you and your talent pure. The more I travel and open my eyes, the more I see that the people who have the best skills just aren’t selling them. It reaffirms my faith in the underground that it seems that the best art/food/music, etc. is made privately for people to share with others, and by people who care about it too much to sell it. This is one of the reasons I am proud to stay small. The abysmal state of restaurant food is a good example of this. Jacob and I (especially Jacob) have been to probably 75% of the the vegetarian restaurants in this country as well as dozens abroad, not to mention dozens of non-vegetarian fancy restaurants in New York and elsewhere, |
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and whenever I go to a new restaurant it seems that all the excitement and promise I had put into the experience is turned into a desire for home cooking by the end of the meal. The best cooks don’t open the best restaurants. Operating a restaurant is a combination of financial resources, luck, savvy, and No-Doz. The people who cook like true artists don’t usually have that combination because so much of their brain is taken up with being artists. Of course some, maybe most, restaurants just hire a chef who doesn’t have to deal with the day-to-day operations, but I think even with that factored into account it is still the case that the best cooks are home cooks, and I would argue that this is the same in many professions. The ones who “make it” are never, or very rarely ever, the ones with any real genius. In the music industry this is obvious to the point of not needing to be said the minute a band I like starts to get any recognition in the mainstream world I start distrusting them and my ability to judge good music. There are of course exceptions (Radiohead being the best one I can think of). If you think this is snotty, all I can say is that I am all in favor of snottiness if it means distrusting the herd mentality. If something is universally loved, it behooves us to distrust it. The best musicians are the ones who are too shy to play on stage or the ones for whom living the life of a successful musician, with all the lies and |
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sadnesses this entails, eats them up from the inside out, and in my experience this applies to almost all fields.
Wider vs. deeper What we can take from this is that if you’re really, really good at something it isn’t wise to commodify it, to sell it off the highest bidder, because then maybe you don’t have enough left for yourself metaphorically or literally. Of course it is right to share our particular gifts and talents with the world. But I am wary of the branding of the self that artists seem increasingly to put themselves through in order to survive. It is assumed that we must distribute our talents as widely as possible in order to create the most income and notoriety, but this inevitably cheapens them. When I was struggling to make a profit from my business, I did everything catering, private cooking, baking, chocolate truffles. It made me very unhappy because I really just wanted to focus on my meal delivery business, but it did make me a little money, and of course I am in favor of artists doing what they have to do to survive. But now that the business is going a little better, everyone is telling me now is the time to expand, write a cookbook, even nonexistent god forbid! franchise. We’re always taught that if our businesses are doing well we need to keep pushing, get our products in more stores, reach more markets, etc. |
I think that now is the time to use the precious extra resources I push more deeply into my craft to invest in better equipment, to keep finding better raw materials, to hone my skills in a specific area, to find ways to run the business in a more environmentally sustainable way. To take days off to garden and read books and write articles and work on volunteer projects. These things don’t necessarily help you make a better profit. They help you sleep better at night. I fear that some will see this as a lack of ambition, but I see it as a rejection of an AmericaTM-style of commodification of talent that has made America so painful to live in today. Yes, I lack the desire to see my name plastered all over some fluffy useless cookbook or on the Food Network. You could argue that by turning inward and focusing our energy very deeply in one area (a community, say), rather than spreading it out thinly across a large area (a country, say) means that the majority of Americans those chattering classes, those overwashed masses, those hideous monstrosities we are forced the share our precious country with will never reap the fruits of our brilliance. It is one thing to share our gifts with our equally elitist, coastal-dwelling friends, but what about the millions of Americans who would start to eat vegan food if only there was a show on the Food |
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Network that introduced vegan food gently to them, or a color-coded, large-print, non-judgmental vegan cookbook that was written especially for the fatass mainstream American housewife in mind, preferably using a lot of hideously refined soy protein products so easily found in our fluorescent, hygienic supermarkets? Fuck them. That’s really all I can say to that. That argument is the means-justify-the-ends argument, and I just can’t stand it. When good cooks start writing baby cookbooks for the baby cooks of America, there will be nothing left for us good cooks who prefer interesting recipes. If we all turn our art into a commercial-friendly family-fun show, there will be no real art left. Mainstream Americans are a dying breed. Either they will come to our side, or they will breed themselves into oblivion. I care not either way. But I do care about us as artists. And the consequence of everything I’m saying is that us artists will just make less money. How to survive financially in a small world Perhaps this is not the worst thing. Because of the particular circumstances surrounding my household (namely, drug addictions), I grew up in a very modest household. Of course, I yearned for the things that |
money could buy (namely, clothes to make me the most popular girl in school and endless supplies of office supplies a fetish I still indulge in), but my hippie parents had drilled into me a hatred of yuppies and money culture that I can never shake.
People with money were (and are) people to be cautious of, because obviously they obtained it in a less than sterling way (the manifestation of this belief in my household was to stay home and take massive amounts of drugs because anything more would be giving in to the Man, obviously a pastime I have luckily not inherited). These days I will allow that saving up for retirement or having enough to pay the mortgage on time does not make me the representation of capitalist decadence, but I still get extremely nervous when I see that instead of sending an extra payment to my student loans I could order a pair of custom ballet shoes hand painted with my choice of witty 30-letter slogans in a retro-tattoo style (!) and could still have enough leftover to pay all other bills. So, although I overspend now and then, I’ve always assumed I would live a frugal life, and it’s not hard for me to do so. But the pull of America is strong, and it is imperative that we all learn how to survive with less. Part of the benefit of staying small is that we have more time, and luckily we can often trade that time for luxuries we can’t afford or don’t feel comfortable buying for ourselves. |
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This is where bartering comes in. I’ve found that if you have a useful or artistic skill to share, the bartering world is vast and deep. Sites like craigslist are perfect for barters. On your business’ website, fliers, business cards, etc., make sure that you mention that you accept barters. Most of the time you will get offers for crap you never wanted, but once in a while you will get an offer for something great. I contact other small business owners about barters all the time, and usually find them more than willing to trade for often 100% or at least a portion of their rates. The other benefit of staying small is that we have time for volunteer work. We can all agree on the fact that our country and world are getting shittier by the day. It makes no sense to continue to debate this fact. I believe that the Catholic church or some similar cult suggests that its followers devote a portion (usually 10%) of their income of the church, called a tithe. I think this is an excellent idea (sometimes those crazy God people have an OK idea), and have committed to donating 5% of my income and 5% of my time to stopping the global apocalypse we seem to be always on the precipice of. I figure if I have enough to go to a nice restaurant once in a while, I have enough to |
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spare, so I sponsor a sheep at Farm Sanctuary and give money to Moveon.org and Greenpeace and NOW and Alternatives to Marriage Project when they send me pleading emails, and I donate my time. This year I’ve been typing a cookbook and writing an essay for the luddite cooks at the restaurant where I work once in a while. The cookbook should be out there in the world, the recipes are great and the restaurant is an institution more people should know about, and I feel good about helping them.
The other great thing about keeping things micro is that you don’t have to feel like you’re shooting yourself in the foot if you help out other business owners. If you are determined to keep it small, you’re freed from the bonds of competition because you don’t feel like you have to hold back any good ideas or tricks in case you want to profit from them later. I have no secret recipes and no business secrets. If someone wanted to open up a meal delivery service in my same community I wouldn’t be overjoyed, but because I limit my client base I am confident I would still be fine. Once in a while I get calls from people starting up similar services around the country, and it’s a good feeling to support them. I try to keep myself honest and transparent. This saves a lot of time and wasted energy and forced niceness used to cover up a terror of others who do the same sort of work you do. |
Big is ugly Small is beautiful also simply because big is ugly, and that’s a good enough reason for me to stay small. Starbucks can give its employees great health care, and that’s wonderful, but it doesn’t make up for the fact that it’s just fucking unpleasant to see a Starbucks on every corner. I’ve read interviews with the founder of Whole Foods that make him sound like an ethical guy just trying to do some good, but that doesn’t change the fact that most people would prefer to shop at a local health food store whose profits go back into their community. Apart from companies, there is something distasteful to me about the culture of celebrity we breathe in every day, where every cook dreams of being a celebrity chef and every coffeeshop musician’s dream is to play Madison Square Garden. To achieve these goals, we promote ourselves endlessly we create websites (like this one!) and hip 1” buttons and CD artwork with the fonts and colors that will promote our own particular brand most effectively. There are 1,000 recipes for red velvet cake out there, but we must publish a cookbook with our red velvet cake recipe, because it’s ours, and because we want to be out there in the public sphere, it has to go into our cookbook. I suppose this sounds very anti-art and like I want everyone to stay at home and watch TV instead of promoting their own beautiful thing, and that’s not it. |
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. It’s just distasteful to me how much shit we seem to be pumping out these days, and I wish we (me included, you should have seen the horrid essays I deleted from this site during it’s recent revamp) would take a breath and ask ourselves if our art contributes anything to our overstuffed society, or if it’s just self-promotion? Let’s keep it small, keep it beautiful and precious and intimate, and keep it pure. Sparrow As these thoughts were percolating in my head, I happened to read an article in Utne (March-April 2006 issue) that dovetailed in a tidy and pleasant way with my own ideas on small is beautiful. It was a profile of a man named Sparrow, and that fact enough was enough to almost make me stop reading. I am not overly fond of men in general, and don’t usually make it a point to read about their lives. In addition, like many children of hippies I have an internalized distrust of people with hippie names. But I was on a plane and therefore in the absolute middle of the horror of America people reading their supermarket thrillers, babies squalling because their parents just fed them entire packets of M&Ms, high school girls wearing those appalling tight fleecy sweatsuits with brand names written on the asses and Ugg boots, loud |
couples laughing indiscreetly at unfunny situations depicted on the blaring plane TV sets, I
could go on and on and on and my distrust of hippie culture was way overshadowed by my utter distain and, indeed, hatred at my circumstances, so I immersed myself in the irreverent poetry and eccentric lifestyle of a 60-year old man named Sparrow.
Apparently Mr. Sparrow has a book out through Soft Skull Press (whose founder, I believe, is running for NY state governor on the Green Party ticket, incidentally), America: A Prophecy: A Sparrow Reader. According to the article, Sparrow is “A substitute teacher who’s never made more than $11,000 in a year, Sparrow lives with his wife, Violet Snow, in a village in the Catskills where he takes baths, talks with friends, studies Hebrew, practices Ananda Marga tantric yoga, and watches the sky and reads magazines he finds in the trash.” He has also, shamblingly, run for president several times, and of his qualifications says, “No one realizes that America’s decline can be a boon. A civilization’s autumn can have the same virtues as retirement…I’d be the perfect president of a declining America, as I’ve been in retirement since 1973, when I flunked out of Cornell. I fill each day with an array of personal whims. I stock the |
![]() bird feeder, visit lobbies of famous hotels…I spend three dollars a day, and my life is plentiful. I can teach this to America.” The profile on him included a bit about his ice recipes: “For a number of years, my primary recipe project was the cookbook Cooking with Ice…I began to think about cooking with ice, as, of course, a paradox. You cook with ice, and the ice (almost immediately)disappears. No one will ever find ice in your food. Similarly, most meaningful subjects in life are invisible. Time can’t be seen. Love is invisible…Cooking with ice became a way for me to discuss the Eternal invisibilities." |
So, as I said, I usually come to such Woodstock-ian musings with more than a little distrust the article mentions that he lives (near Woodstock, actually) with his wife and daughter, but what does his wife do? How does his daughter feel about living on $3 a day? and I’m not saying anyone needs to be a Sparrow disciple or anything, but the article struck me. The world could use a lot more Sparrows who tread lightly and purposefully and joyfully on the earth.
The same issue, incidentally (I guess I shouldn’t let my Utne subscription lapse) has a little article on some Vermonters who want to bring about the “peaceful dissolution of the American empire” -- what better exemplification of “small is beautiful”? January 2006 For further reading: Ben and Jerry on sustainable businesses Paul Hawkins on growing a business |
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